We often learn much from studying what not to do. In the last issue, we covered the aspects of a proper and good stitch. This is powerful when achieving a great looking stitch out of a machine.  This article will cover what can lead to a poor stitch quality. Most issues can be divided into one of three areas; Operator, Material Quality, Sewing Mechanism Fail Points. The following information is set up in the order of frequency. In other words the mostly common problems are listed first, and so on.

Operator

    The last thing that we want to hear is that our actions can be the root of a problem. The truth is that the vast majority of problems are a result of operator error. This fact is hardest to accept for the seasoned quilter and sewer, but reviewing these areas can lead to quick resolution.
       

Over the years of providing technical support for sewing machines I have found that most operators have a fear of tensioning the machine. This may be due to the perceived complexity of the devices or fear of breaking the machine.  Fear in this case is fear of the unknown. This fear leads to anxiety and stress if anything goes wrong. The first remedy for this issue is to take time to become familiar with the tensioning system. Practice on samplers, which give you the chance to play with the tension knobs, various threads, and other factors. While doing this, remember to make one adjustment at a time, then sew. Observe the change in the stitch. Then return the adjustment to the previous state and move to another adjustment. Also, consult your owner’s manual. Read the sections on tension several times, allowing the information to sink in. As you become used to adjusting the tensions, and become familiar with the cause and effect of adjustments, you will alleviate fear and stress associated with making changes.

    Every sewing machine operator I have worked with suffers from an urge to tighten tension when stitch quality problems surface. It is true that stitch quality can possibly be helped by tightening tension, but this is not always the case. This “urge to tighten” is the proverbial slippery slope. As each problem occurs, the operator tightens the tension again and again. Eventually there is no where else to adjust, thread breakage becomes a problem, and if the stitch is still not good, the operator is left at a dead end. Instead of always tightening, remember that the key is a balanced stitch, not necessarily a tighter one. The corrective action begins in the bobbin. Maintain an even flow with moderate tension when working with sewing and quilting machines. Embroidery machines employ a stronger bobbin pull, and even have factory set cases. Once the bobbin tension is set, balance the stitch with adjustments to the top tension. If your machine requires a very strong top tension to achieve a good stitch, consider having the devices serviced as they maybe be malfunctioning.

    For many of you reading this article, I have spoken with you over the phone providing technical support over the past decade. In most of those calls, I will begin by having the operator confirm proper threading. This is the foundation of stitch quality. No matter your skill level, improper threading happens. Consult your manual and technical support person for information on proper threading. This may even change depending on the thread type or style of sewing. Many of the sewing machines I have worked on were simply not threaded correctly, despite the many years of experience of the operator. A sewing machine needs to maintain constant and even thread flow that allows the tensioning system to operate properly.

    I can never stress to much the significance of bobbin health. A chain reaction of issues can result from a bobbin inserted backwards, or the bobbin base not fully inserted into the bobbin basket. Always confirm that the case and bobbin are in properly. The tolerances in sewing machine are tight enough that a failure in this area can result in jamming the machine and throwing off timing.

    It disheartens me to work on a machine that has been neglected over the years of use. There are many issues that can arise from lack of proper care. Build up of thread and fuzz, dirty track systems, lack of lubrications, and so on are all signs of a diminished respect for the sewing machine. Operators will spend large sums of money and invest many hours in working on projects, and yet not spend the time to properly care for the machine. Stitch quality will be effected adversely as the various mechanisms and devices fail to function as debris and wear damage them. Keep your machine clean and maintained according to your technical support’s and operator manual’s instructions.

    Finally, a sewing machine is a tool. And as such, the proper use is paramount. This is similar to an owner of a car complaining about a broken power window. This complaint leads to complaints about the car manufacturer, the sales person, and even modern technology as a whole. And yet in the end we find the car owner was pressing the door lock button expecting the window to go down. And sewing machines are even more than a tool, they are an instrument for making art. Using tools and instruments take time to learn. Practice and proper instruction are key here.  When hand-guiding a free motion longarm quilting machine, the motions must be smooth and consistent. Stitch-regulators can be overrun with erratic motion and moving the machine or fabric too fast. Using the correct sewing foot, and adjusting

feed dogs on domestic machines are required. Different threads can require slower sewing speeds. In summary, know your limits and skill level and always seek to improve your technique. Avoid the trap of trying to find an adjustment in the machine that will compensate for your improper use.

   
Material Quality

    Once we know the machine is properly cared for and utilized, we can move to the quality and type of materials employed in sewing, quilting or embroidery. Not all thread, fabric, batting and stabilizers are made equal. In addition, there are specific applications for various materials. When used improperly, poor quality can result.

    The foremost component in sewing is thread. There are many different types of thread used in sewing machines. Most are polyester, cotton or some blend. As a general rule, polyester thread tends to be stronger and more color fast. In most cases, thread is chosen based on the look and feel. Be aware of the other factors and how they affect your sewing. Machine quilting thread purchased at general sewing supply stores is most likely not intended for use on large industrial quilting machines. Very thin threads are popular since they sink to fabrics, but remember that thinner threads tend to be weaker and require a looser tensioning. Also, different weights and thicknesses of thread call for different sized needles. Choose the smallest needle that does not cause thread breakage. Factors to consider: material it is made from, weight and thickness, strength derived from construction, intended application, age, and environment. This topic could occupy an entire book. For more information on proper thread, consult your thread manufacturer or visit my blog, as I will be compiling data on thread types and use.

Sewing Mechanism Fail Points

    Once you have identified the proper use and materials in your sewing, a bad stitch can result from various fail points in the sewing machine’s operation. Ironically enough, when poor stitch quality problems arise, the instinct is to suspect the sewing machine is not working properly. This may be the case. However, in my experience this is the last area to look.

    Much of the stitch quality is determined by the bobbin and bobbin case. Flat line or rail-road tracks on the back of the quilt and inconsistent tension along a straight line are results of improper bobbin winding, damaged or improperly inserted bobbin case. Bobbins should be firm and evenly wound, with no loose tails of thread. Also avoid overfilling the bobbin. The bobbin base should be round. Test this with an empty bobbin. Spin it with your finger in the case. If it does not spin freely, then the case is out of round. Also, a bobbin case needs a healthy anti-backlash spring. This flat piece of metal lays inside the case, and assists in a consistent turning of the bobbin, applies back pressure on the bobbin, and prevents back lash of bobbin thread by applying a light friction to the bobbin.

    Bad thread flow causes a bad stitch. Thread can hang up on damaged or improperly threaded guides. Pull down on the top thread, but not through the needle eye. Feel for even and consistent thread flow. Inspect each thread guide for developing burrs, cut channels and cracks. In most cases, sewing machines are equipped with the proper number and style of thread guides. Be wary of a perceived need to add, remove, or change factory guides.

    For the most part, correctly cleaning and caring for a sewing machine will avoid many faults in the tension devices. Discs and springs become clogged with debris. When devices are over-tightened for long periods of time, the springs loose effective ability to apply pressure. Malfunctions in tensioning devices manifest in an inability to make changes to tension despite adjusting the devices, tension applied at improper times for intermittent devices or possible consistent looping (knotting) of thread on the back of the project.

    A good stitch is undermined when the thread breaks. Due to the nature of sewing machines, we will always experience some level of thread breaking. Excessive thread breakage, however, is often cause by choosing the wrong needle for the thread used. Many sewing machines specify proper needle sizes in the user manuals. Others rely on thread manufactures to provide that information. Consult both. Needles have characteristics like shaft diameter, length, eye size, scarf shape and depth, and so on. Each needle type is designed for a specific application. Using a needle with too small an eye for the thread will create stress on the thread and result in breakage. Also, the use of a needle causes burrs and dulling. Changing a needle is a cheap way to maintain quality sewing. In longarm machines, changing a needle every quilt is almost a must to avoid issues.

    The sewing hook is required to form a stitch. Therefore, damage and improper timing and positioning will make sewing impossible. Consult technical support and manuals for assistance in getting these set up right. If a needle is broken, it is possible to damage or knock a hook out of timing. In most cases, this will appear as skipped stitches. It can also result in threading being sliced by the hook.
   

    A bad stitch is the unwanted companion of sewing machines. This can cause such stress that we loose the joy associated with sewing, quilting, and embroidering. Understanding what causes a bad stitch can help us avoid and overcome the problems. Operator errors, poor material and construction quality in the threads, and failures in the sewing mechanism are the main areas to consider. Check your actions and skill level first. Ensure you are using good quality materials and for the correct application. And finally, be able to identify failures in the sewing machine itself, but avoid blaming them first. Coupled with knowing the anatomy of a good stitch, this information will help you get back to enjoying using your machines quickly and efficiently.